This elegant Advent calendar from Chrissi is an absolute eye-catcher and a great addition to your Christmas decorations!

Material:

• 11x design paper (8x Mimi papers for the boxes, 2 x design papers for the toppers and the insert in the star; 1 x Mimi paper matching the book linen for the spine)
• 2 x screen printing cardboard 2 mm
• 1x book cloth
• Thin kraft paper for leveling
• bookbinding glue
• Chrissis Demolition Rhombus Box Punch
• Punching or Embossing Folder Advent Numbers

Tool:

• Paint brush
• glue
• set square with metal edge or metal ruler
• corner tool if necessary
• cutter, scissors
• Pencil
• punching machine

Cuts: (width x height)

screen-printed cardboard or grey cardboard 2mm

screen printing cardboard 30 x 30

Mark the star with the template and cut it out with the cutter.

(Alternatively, you can construct and mark the star, I have attached the construction below)

side panels:

1 x 9.2 cm x 4 cm

10 x 9 cm x 4 cm

1 x 8.8 cm x 4cm

running direction parallel to the long side

Bookcloth:

2 x 60 cm x 7 cm

2 x 60 cm x 5 cm

Narrow strips approx. 1.5 cm x 3 cm (6x)

Narrow strips approx. 0.5 cm x 3 cm (12x)

Kraft paper 30 x 30 cm: 4 strips of 4 cm

In order to form the tips nicely and to increase the stability of the star for further work, we place a strip of kraft paper all around.

The paper can also overlap, it hardly adds any bulk. Always work page by page, gluing the cardboard in thinly and evenly. Fig. 1.6

Now we roughly fold the small strips of book linen (approx. 3 cm x 1.5 cm) lengthwise in the middle. We then cut them from both sides so that about 5 mm remain in the middle. Fig. 1.7

The resulting strip is then placed in the middle of the blunt inner edges as shown in photo 1.8 . The best way to do this is to glue the edge to the cardboard in the lower area right down to the floor. This does not have to be limited; the excess glue will be covered by the paneling later. The corner is now neatly covered.

Repeat the whole process on all inner edges.

Then follow the small 5 mm wide strips. We use them to clean up the upper edges of the interior angles (Fig. 1.9) and the lower edge in the same place. Fig. 1.11

It is best to glue the small strips onto a piece of greaseproof paper and place it in the middle over the edges. Adjust the book cloth well to the corners. Fig. 1.10 and Fig. 1.11

The 60 cm long strips (7 cm high) are roughly measured in length. It is important that you never start at the tip when attaching the star. The book cloth should not be doubled here so that there is enough space to insert the boxes later.

Therefore, start approximately in the middle of one side panel. Fig. 2.1

We now glue the side surfaces side by side, always extending a little beyond the peak or the "valley". Work section by section, so you can cover it more easily and without glue stains.

The book cloth is sized so that there is enough overhang when gluing. If necessary, draw a guide line at 1.5 cm on the bottom edge.

Rub the book cloth well with the bone folder and work it closely into the corners. Fig. 2.2

Only when the corner edges fit well do you glue the next section.

Make sure that the strip does not end in the narrow tips of the star.

Before applying the glue, test the last segment and shorten it with a cutter or scissors if necessary.

Before the second strip follows, we first fold over the protruding edge strips. This will make it easier for you to work from now on.

To do this, we cut the angle flatly but generously at the tips on the underside . Fig. 2.3 To do this, place the scissors on the edge so that there is always enough material left over so that the corner remains covered.

In the obtuse angles (“star valley”) we cut the book cloth in the extension up to the edge. Fig. 2.4

Now glue the excess of the book cloth, fold it over the edges and press it down with the bone folder. Rework the edges with the bone folder

For the upper edge, cut the star tips at a flat angle, but make sure that enough material (2mm) remains for covering the edge, so place the scissors slightly above the edge. Fig. 2.6

At the “star valleys” you cut back to the edge at the top. Fig. 2.7

The previously attached “underlay” prevents the cardboard from protruding.

When all peaks and valleys have been worked on, the excess linen strip is glued in and folded over.

The sharp angle makes it easy to clean up the sharp corner. If there is still too much material left, trim the angle a little more.

The rhombus box must be able to fit snugly into the corner later on so that all the parts sit perfectly in the frame. Use the bone folder at the tip to work the corner in nicely. Fig. 2.8

First, we fold the smaller strip (height 5 cm) inwards at a length of approx. 6 to 7 cm. Fig. 3.1 Then we place the folded linen strip into the inner edge of the star as a test, approx. 1 to 1.5 mm away from the upper edge. Fig. 3.2

Using the bone folder or fingernail, we mark the bottom edge where the strip fits into the base.

Now we lift the strip out again and temporarily fold this edge of the bottom edge along the entire strip.

The strip is unfolded again, but the fold line is still visible on the spine of the paper.

We now place the previously folded cross edges exactly on top of each other and cut a flat angle into the double edge until just before the longitudinal fold (bottom edge). Fig. 3.3 and Fig. 3.4

Once opened, we can already see how the book linen strip will later be inserted into the star tip. Fig. 3.5

To do this, we first glue the cardboard into the star tip of the first segment in the area of ​​the later book linen up to approx. 1 cm below the upper edge.

The first third of the second segment is also glued in, but only up to just below the top edge. Glue is now applied to the inside of the top edge of the linen strip (approx. 1.5 cm) and the strip is then inserted into the corner.

This allows us to work cleanly and the edges stick well all the way to the edge.

We always orient ourselves on the upper edge, where the distance should be kept constant.

The bottom edge is created by incorporating the linen.

At the top, we carefully place the cut corners on top of each other in the base area. Use the tip of the bone folder or a pair of tweezers to help. The overlapping material may need to be trimmed a little more.

When it is well positioned at the angle, we press the linen onto the floor at the tip. Then carefully rework the tip, especially in the corner, with the bone folder. Fig. 3.6

Now it's almost done. Now lay the linen without glue until you reach the next corner (outer corner). Before gluing, mark the point of the edge in the floor area with a pencil (it will be covered later). Fig. 3.7

Now lift the linen strip again slightly and cut at right angles from the edge to the bottom fold. Fig. 3.8

Now the bookcloth strip can easily be placed around the corner. Fig. 3.9

You can now glue the grey cardboard back in up to half of the next segment (again leaving out the upper area) and then glue the book linen in the upper area.

Carefully fold the linen into the bottom edge, always keeping the exact distance to the top edge.

Now you have to repeat the whole thing at the next tip.

To do this, press the linen strip into the inner edge of the tip, then use the bone folder or your fingernail to pull the edge along so that it is later visible on the spine of the book linen. Lift the strip up again a little and you can now cut out the angle in the bottom fold at the marked point.

Only glue the next side halfway to the corner. This gives you the opportunity to intervene and make corrections. Fix the top edge in place to create a nice edge. Fig. 3.10

So you continue working your way forward segment by segment. Fig. 3.11

A little tricky, I know. But with a little practice, the inner edges will be perfect.

You can now mark the inner star on the desired design paper using the inner line of your template and cut it out with the cutter. Try inserting it once, gluing it flat and ideally rubbing it down a little with a cloth.

For the star spine (matching color Mimi paper) you use the outer edge of the template again. Mark it, cut it and glue it flat onto the back. You can also use book cloth here.

Now it's time to punch. If you're very skilled, four boxes will actually fit on one sheet. It's easier if you divide the paper into three boxes. The box can be closed and opened with the tear-off zipper, but you can also leave the side flap open for later filling.

Now the boxes are inserted. They are easy to remove, but still sit firmly in the frame. Attach the toppers with 3D pads if desired and finally decorate with our new "Small Serif Numbers" or the "Number Labels 1-24". Use the great shimmer paper for this. With their high grammage, they stand out beautifully from the box.

Star construction (side dimensions 9 cm), inner radius 18 cm. Fig. 6.1

First, draw the diagonal of the cardboard. Draw auxiliary lines at an angle of 60 degrees in the center. Then, using a compass or ruler, mark a distance of 9 cm on these lines (star valley).

Draw a 90 degree auxiliary line for the diagonal. From this, add 60 degree auxiliary lines as before. This gives you auxiliary lines each at 30 degrees around the center. Fig. 6.2

If you now connect the marked points (distance points 9cm from the center) beyond the intersection points of the auxiliary lines, you will get the star tips on the remaining auxiliary lines. Check the inner dimensions of 18 cm again so that you can be sure that all the boxes will fit in well later. You can also lay the boxes on top as a test.

Use your basic star as a template so you can quickly make more stars later.

For the inner star (cladding) in the floor, reduce the area by removing 2mm all around. The outer cladding corresponds to the basic star.

Have fun making it!

From us to you ⭐

Chrissi