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Instructions: Book screw album with sewn pages

Instructions : Book screw album with sewn pages


Do you like screw book albums as much as I do?


But it has always bothered you that it is so difficult to browse through them?


Then you have come to the right place!


I thought of a solution to the problem.

…and to spice up the album a bit, it has a split cover.

Material:

Alternatively, greyboard in appropriate thicknesses


Tool:

Preparation

Cuts: (all information always width x height)


Screen printing or grey cardboard 1mm: (note the grain direction when using grey cardboard)

  • 18.2x16cm
  • 7x16cm
  • 5x16cm

Screen printing grey cardboard 2mm: (note the grain direction of grey cardboard)

  • 24 x 16 cm (cut after finishing the front)
  • 4x16cm

Bookcloth:

  • 27x19cm
  • 16x19cm
  • 8x15.7cm

Design paper:

  • 10 x 20 cm as decorative paper
  • 23.7 x 15.7 cm (inner lining of album spine)
  • 17 x 15.7 cm (inner lining cover)

Part 1: Cover the album spine

To cover it, we place the grey cardboard or screen-printed cardboard cut-out measuring 24 cm x 16 cm with a 1.5 cm overhang all around on the linen cut-out measuring 27 x 19 cm . You can also draw the edge lines thinly at 1.5 cm . However, with light-colored linen, make sure that the pencil lines do not show through.

With grey cardboard you have to pay attention to the grain direction. With screen-printed cardboard you don't have to pay attention to the grain direction due to the way it is manufactured.

You can find comprehensive information on the topic of running direction here on the blog.


The paper or book cloth should always be glued in a star shape from the inside to the outside, as the material expands when exposed to moisture. If the cardboard is glued in first, it can warp or cause unsightly distortions.

Make sure to glue the edges well. Put a piece of scrap paper underneath. But remove it immediately after gluing so that you don't get your cover dirty.

"Stretch" the paper or linen onto the cardboard evenly. I like to rub the surface with a clean cloth to ensure that the material is well-adhered and glued across the surface. Clean the work surface regularly to ensure that no glue blobs end up on your work.


The corners are now cut at an angle of 45 ° at a distance of 2 to 3 mm from the tip. See Figure 1.1

"Feel free to use a set square or the corner tool from the shop. With a little practice, you will be able to work without any additional tools later on. Always make sure that at least 45° of the overhang remains. The tool always enables a perfect result here."

The distance to the corners depends on the thickness of the grey cardboard. To completely cover the corner, you always need at least the thickness of the grey cardboard, or better still 1.5 times the thickness of the material . In this case, that is 3 mm .


Now we place the pages around the edge with a little tension and work them with the bone folder for a nice result. First fold in the opposite sides, then brush the edges at the corners inwards (Fig. 1.2). This gives you a clean, closed corner.

Work on the corners one page at a time and then fold in the corresponding page. Check whether the glue has dried yet and add more glue if necessary. Finish the edges again with the bone folder (Fig.1.3)

Now you can cover the inside (Fig. 1.4). The design paper measuring 26.7 cm x 15.7 cm is glued on with equal spacing all the way around. Again, rub it on evenly (Fig. 1.5).

To dry, we now put the finished album spine to one side, protected with paper and weighted down with something heavy.

Part 2: Assemble and cover the cover

Now we need the edge piece 4 cm x 16 cm and 2 mm thick and the cardboard pieces with 1 mm thickness, since the lid is made up of 2 layers.

We glue the edge piece, which is 2 mm thick and measures 4 cm x 16 cm, onto the book cloth ( 16 cm x 19 cm ) with a distance of 1.5 cm from the left edge. There is also a 1.5 cm overhang at the top and bottom.


"For smaller pieces of cardboard, I glue the grey cardboard in here. This makes it easier to work and the tensile stress is negligible for smaller surfaces."

 

To do this, coat the cardboard evenly with a thin layer of glue, rub the book cloth evenly and check the corners. If necessary, you can add more glue there. The cardboard is then attached to this with a thickness of 1 mm and a width of 7 cm . We leave a gap of 1.8 cm to the edge piece. (Fig. 2.1) Be careful, work carefully here, otherwise the front and back pieces will not fit together later.

We now only cut the corners on the edge strip (Fig. 2.2), and initially only the long left side is glued and folded over the edge. The opposite side is then also glued and folded over, but the linen is glued over the edge (Fig. 2.3). The other two edges remain open!

Now we take the larger cardboard 18.3 cm x 16 cm , glue the design paper ( 10 cm x 20 cm ) and place it about 5 cm from the left edge (Fig. 2.4).

There is a 2 cm overhang at the top and bottom. Rework the edges with the bone folder and glue them (Fig. 2.5).

The front of the section covered with design paper is now glued to the section previously covered with book linen. Place the cardboard flush on the 7cm strip at the front edge (Fig. 2.6). Do not apply the glue all the way to the front edge in the area of ​​the book linen so that it does not ooze out. Make sure to follow the pattern on the design paper. It must be placed upside down, running from top to bottom. The remaining excess linen is now glued in and also folded over. The linen is worked into the gap using the bone folder.

This is what our cover looks like now (Fig. 2.7).

We now cover the last strip ( 5 cm x 16 cm ) with bookcloth. To do this, glue the cardboard evenly and thinly, place it in the middle of the bookcloth cut-out (Fig. 2.8) and paint it well. Always check the corners to see if they are well glued. If necessary, you can rework them.

No cuts are made here, just glue one side straight along the entire length (Fig. 2.9)

The strip covered with book linen is now glued flush to the outer edge of the cover. To do this, apply the glue thinly over the entire surface; in the area of ​​the book linen, it is sufficient to apply the glue linearly with some distance from the edge. This prevents the glue from being pressed out.

It's almost done. The album cover now needs to be covered on the inside. (Fig. 2.13)

To do this, glue the linen strip ( 8 cm x 15.7 cm ) and place it on the left with a gap of approx. 1.5 mm (make sure the gap is the same all the way around the edges). Use the bone folder to finish the book linen in the cardboard-free space. Then glue the design paper cut-out ( 17 cm x 15.7 cm ) on with a gap of approx. 1.5 mm from the edges and rub it flat with the bone folder.

The cover is now finished (Fig. 2.14).

Part 3: Sewing the inside

Now it's time to cut and sew the insides. I adjusted the dimensions to the sheets in the house collection and chose strips of 15.2 cm . You can either cut the sheets to the final length or design the sheets with a second fold as a flap.

Despite the slight off-center position, I used an A6 hole punch to make the holes. This way I can guarantee that all the inserts will be perfectly aligned. If that bothers you, you can simply cut the layers to 15 cm or mark the center of the holes individually.


So we cut the strips according to the grain direction, ie the grain direction should be parallel to the short side so that the pages lie well later and are easy to leaf through.

First, we fold the strips at 2 cm parallel to the short side. If you want a flap, you have to make a second fold at 21 cm . Otherwise, cut here at 21 cm .

Each strip gets a counterpart, which is sewn on like a “joint”.

For the joint strip we need a cut of 8 cm x 15.2 cm .

We fold this in the middle at a width of 4 cm (Fig. 3.1).

Here you can use the overhangs of the insert sheets.

For sewing, we make a template (Fig. 3.2). Here we place the holes at 2 cm from the edge and once in the middle at 7.6 cm .

If you have a pricking aid, you can use that. Otherwise, simply place the stencil and the paper layers on top of each other (secure with paper clips) or work with a soft surface.

To connect, place the insert sheet with the 2 cm fold into the folded 8 cm strip (Fig. 3.3). Now place the template on top and pre-pierce.

To sew, start from the inside, lead the thread to the outside and then sew it back to the inside at the middle hole. Lead the thread back to the outside at the third hole and come in through the middle. Tie the thread together there with a little tension. (Fig.3.4)

The two outer strips are now both folded to the side (Fig. 3.5 and 3.6).

The narrow strip is glued to the insert sheet, so the seam disappears and you get a spacer for later inserting the photos.

When inserting, the side with the adhesive tab can be placed downwards.


Now the insert sheets are punched in the area of ​​the edge strips. Use an A6 hole punch or mark the arrangement in the middle.


To transfer the holes to the book cover and spine (Fig. 3.7), we place the insert sheets at a distance of 4 mm, whereby the distance above and below should be approximately the same.

Finally, mark the position with a pencil and punch the holes using the Crop-a-dile or the eyelet tool. (Fig.3.8 and Fig. 3.9)

The gap between the cardboard in the cover makes it easy to open the album.

The insert pages lie with their "hinge" barely visible on the opening edge, but are positioned in such a way that the pages can be easily turned.


Now insert the insert sheets, insert the book screws and our book screw album with sewn pages is ready.


The final size of the finished photo pages is 21 cm x 15.2 cm .


Browsing and leafing through it should no longer be a problem.

To design, simply remove the pages; of course, you can add more pages at any time.

Have fun designing further!


From us to you ⭐

Chrissy

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If you want to see more of Chrissi's work, follow @ stampgirls4fun on Instagram, or visit one of her workshops, you can find all the information here .

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